Based on experiences with single malts from the other distilleries that are owned by Burn Stewart (Deanston and Tobermory) I was sceptical at first. There, the focus seemed to be on quantity rather than quality. It is actually possible to find magnificent bottlings from these distilleries, but they are usually selected casks from independent bottlers. I"m happy to report that Bunnahabhain seems to be doing very well - IMPROVED quality if anything!
The Bunnahabhain distillery on Islay is located on the north of the island, with Caol Ila as its only neighbour. Situated on the coast of the Sound of Islay, it"s protected from the fierce winds blowing in from the Atlantic ocean. Maybe this is reflected in the upeated style of the "Bunny". It"s the only unpeated Islay malt whisky (Bruichladdich is lightly peated).
The fact that Bunnahabhain is (at least potentially) the biggest distillery on the island may come as a surprise to some, but when some of the malt maniacs visited Bunnahabhain in June 2005 we could verify for ourselves that the stills were absolutely massive. The trip to the distillery is worth it, even if you don"t fancy basking in the glow of the massiveness of the stills. Most whisky activity is on the southern part of the island and around Loch Indaal, but a trip north will take you along Loch Finlaggan - worth a detour.
It"s hard to believe if you visit the remote, quiet island of Islay (population +/- 3,000), but it was once the centre of a large empire. The centre of that empire was Loch Finlaggan. In the loch are three islands, two of which lie close to the north shore; Eilean Mor (meaning "large island") and Eilean na Comhairle (council isle) which contain the remains of ancient buildings. The chief of Clan Donald ruled as the "Lord of the Isles".
Perhaps it"s just as well that Bunnahabhain was released from their grasp, because both Macallan and Highland Park have managed to drop from my Top 10 of favourite distilleries after the Edrington Group were finished "developing" them. In both cases it meant that the quality of the regular, 12yo expressions that had been affordable favourites of mine during the 1990"s started to drop to "average" levels while the prices were cranked up a notch.
Even though the Bunnahabhain distillery was sold to Burn Stewart, the Edrington group is still its biggest customer. Bunnahabhain may not have the biggest "profile" of the distilleries on Islay, but it has the largest production potential of all distilleries on the island. They don"t run at full capacity, though, making Caol Ila (located just a little to the south) the distillery with the biggest actual annual output on Islay in 2007.
Bunnahabhain distillery was constructed in 1880/1881 by the Greenlees brothers and first opened its doors in 1983. The number of stills was increased from two to four in 1963, at a time that many other distilleries did the same. At the moment, Bunnahabhain has the largest capacity on Islay.
In 1999 Highland Distillers, then the owners of Bunnahabhain, were acquired by the Edrington Group (themselves the result of a merger in 1996). They only held on to Bunnahabhain for a few years; in 2003 Bunnahabhain (the distillery and the brand) were sold to Burn Stewart Distillers, together with the "Black Bottle" brand. In the words of Ian Good, chairman and chief executive of Edrington Group: "The disposals are in line with the group"s strategy of concentrating our investment resource behind developing our core brands." The Glasgow-based Edrington group said that its strategic aim is to concentrate investment behind developing its flagship brands; the Famous Grouse & Cutty Sark blends and the Macallan and Highland Park single malt whiskies.
In 2005 Bunnahabhain distillery employed some 11 people. That may not seem like a lot, but on a small island like Islay every job counts. If the workforce of the other Islay distilleries is of a comparable size, that would mean that all Islay whisky is produced by +/- 100 people...
For a while, I had my doubts about Bunnahabhain"s future... The new slogan they came up with at Burn Stewart is "Bunnahabhain - The Spiritual Home of Black Bottle". Well, if that"s the only "core value" they want to express (the fact that Bunnahabhain is used in a blend, albeit a tasty one) they may not be in the best position to take full advantage of the current single malt whisky boom...
In the New Millenium:
2003 - Four years after the Edrington Group mothballed Bunnahabhain in 1999 it was purchased by Burn Stewart, together with the "Black Bottle" brand of peated blended whisky.
2008 - Two brand new "standard" expressions of Bunnahabhain are released; "Darach Ur" and "Toiteach".