The people behind The Macallan have managed to cultivate an "exclusive" and luxurious brand perception, even though the distillery actually has the 2nd or 3d largest production capacity in Scotland, right behind Glenfiddich and Glenlivet. In the 1990"s it used to be one of my favourite brands on the shelves, but that was when they still matured all malts in sherry casks.
Only after fellow malt maniac Dave Broom had published a string of articles about the concerns about the authenticity of the 19th century bottles in Whisky Magazine, Macallan had the contents of the antique bottles carbon dated. The tests proved that the whisky contained a certain carbon isotope that only occurred in our atmosphere after the first large scale nuclear tests were done. This proved that the whiskies had actually been bottled after circa 1950...
Probably much later, actually. A tasting panel that sampled some of these whiskies guessed they were actually around ten years old, and possibly not even distilled at the Macallan distillery. One might imagine that the buyers of one or more of these replica"s would be reimbursed by Macallan for paying a lot of money for a replica of a fake, but as far as I know this was not the case.
In fact, Macallan"s focus seems to have been slowly drifting from whisky to PR and promotion since the early noughties. When Macallan distillery acquired a few antique bottles of Macallan from a dubious source around the year 2000, they didn"t waste a lot of time checking the authenticity of these bottles. They claimed "tests" of the glass and label had proven that the bottles were genuine, so Macallan proceeded to release a string of so-called "replica"s" of botlles from 1841, 1851, 1861, 1874 and 1876. Too bad the "antiques" they based those on turned out to be fakes...
Actually, the people of Macallan could and should have known better, but they didn"t check too carefully. After all, the "raison d"etre" for the release of these replica"s of bottles of Macallan from the 19th century bottles was the acquisition of these supposedly antique bottles. As soon as Macallan would admit the antiques had been fakes, they would have to discontinue their (commercially very successful) range of replica"s. So, the longer they could put off knowing for certain the bottles were fakes, the more money they would make. It"s hardly surprising that the growing chorus of doubts and warnings from the circles of Macallan fans and malt whisky anoraks around the world was politely ignored for as long as possible.
Or at least that"s what they claimed. The back label of an 18yo expression from 1982 proudly boasts: "For reasons not even science can wholly explain, whisky has always matured best in oak casks that have contained sherry. Due to increasing expense and scarcity, other distilleries no longer insist on sherry casks. THE MACALLAN DIRECTORS DO." Yep, it"s printed in massive capitals just like this on the label. Well, perhaps that"s because it"s a BIG FAT LIE.
When Macallan managed to release an extensive range of (partly) bourbon matured malts in their brand new "Fine Oak" series in 2004 it turned out that they had been maturing whisky in those crappy bourbon casks all along. Or at least since the early 1970"s, because the range included a 25yo and a 30yo Macallan. I might have been able to wash away the sense of betrayal with a few good drams, but compared to the affordable sherried marvels they released in the 1990"s these Fine Oak bottlings didn"t really tickle my fancy. Granted, the design of the new bottles was even nicer than the old one - but the whisky inside the bottle wasn"t...
One of the things that attracted me to single malts in the early 1990"s was the (relative) authenticity of the product in a world where massive corporations and mass media promote mass consumption. The entire "fakes" episode had already stretched the elastic band between Macallan"s brand image and the cold, hard reality close to it"s breaking point. When the purveyors of some of my favourite malts in the sherried side of the spectrum released their Fine Oak range that elastic band finally snapped. "Big Mac" dropped from my list of Top 10 Distilleries.
That being said - there still are very decent bottlings available. The Macallan 10yo Cask Strength (also available at some airports) still offers an affordable sherry kick. That makes it a last refuge for (sherry) Macallan fans in countries like Holland where they discontinued their sherried range altogether and only distribute the "bourbon" variety of their whisky. Fortunately, a few other Speyside distilleries like Aberlour and Glenfarclas still provide a healthy range of sherried expressions in their core single malts portfolio.
2003 - The "1876" replica is released with an ABV of 40.6%.
2004 - The Macallan "Fine Oak" series is launched, proving that Macallan had been using bourbon casks for at least three decades, although they claimed on their labels that only sherry casks were used for Macallan malt whisky. In the same year the "1851 Inspiration" replica is launched in Asia.
2008 - Macallan already used a whopping 21 stills to produce 6,000,000 litres of alcohol in the past, but in September 2008 the old still room with six extra stills is opened up again, increasing capacity to 8,000,000 litres.
EDITOR"S NOTE: You may have noticed some heavy emotions seeping through the lines of this Distillery profile - but that"s just because I used to love the brand so much. In my emotional state I may have failed to explain the entire chain of events accurately and /or completely, despite my best efforts to do so. That"s why I"m very happy that The Macallan"s David Cox took the trouble of replying to some of my criticisms in the Spring of 2009. Did he manage to convince me of Macallan"s noble intentions? Why don"t you check out my Liquid Log and find out for yourself?
In the new Millenium
2001 - Macallan distillery opens a new visitor centre and the first "replica" bottling (the "1861") is released.
2002 - The "1841" replica is launched. Like its "1861" predecessor it"s most likely based on a fake whisky...