"The business started with ladies supping port in its Grafton Street tearoom. Nearly 200 years later wine and spirits merchants Mitchell and Son is still owned by the same family."
During Sarah"s reign things went from good to better. Mitchells bought numbers 9 and 11 Grafton Street and, through what was Grafton Street"s coffee house heyday - with the street knee-deep in the likes of Bewleys, Fullers and Robt. Roberts - Mitchells, with its variety of restaurants, was the place to go.
The first Robert in the family, son of the remarkable Sarah and of Patrick Mitchell, took over the family company in time. In 1887, with the sale of wine making an ever-increasing contribution to the family business, he bought 21 Kildare Street from the then provost of TCD, John Hutchinson, and expanded into whiskey bonding and wines.
"The family business began as a confectionery and bakery in 1805 at 10 Grafton Street - where McDonalds is today," says Jonathan. "It was started by William Mitchell, my great-great-great grandfather, who was a baker and came from the north of England." "The company grew, supplying wedding cakes countrywide and opening tea and private dining rooms on different levels in the building."
Redoubtable women with remarkable names come and go through the Mitchell story. Sarah, who married George Patrick Mitchell, son of William, was one of them. She took over when her husband died, in 1847 at a far too young 32 years, and by 1850 and garnered the first of many royal warrants and became "Confectioner to her Majesty."
Mitchells, in the 1800s, was the Grafton Street place to go for tea, confectioneries and the odd sympathetic tipple. The last was a discreet extra, port served in teacups to the ladies-who-lunched of the time and who couldn"t be seen imbibing publicly. It was in those comforting sups that the seeds of Dublin"s most venerable wine merchants were nourished. Mitchell and Son moved in time from tea and cakes to whiskey and wine and, seven generations and a decisive resistance to takeovers and the multinational route later are nobility among the city"s wine merchant.
From 21 Kildare Street, the elegant, Georgian building the family bought in 1887, Mitchells has for several of those generations been selling fine wines, spirits and its own Green Spot whiskey. In 1918, it would have sold you a dozen bottles of St. Emilion for 32 shillings, white Claret by the dozen for 36 shillings or 12 bottles of John Jameson & Sons whiskey for 108 shillings. They would have paid the carriage to the railway stations too - and you wouldn"t have been charged for the bottles.
How Robert became a family name is a story in itself. "The first Robert was a great friend of Robert Emmet"s" Jonathan explains. "It"s said that on a visit to him in jail, he promised the the firstborn sons in succeeding generations of Mitchells would be called Robert - and that"s how it"s been."
R Jonathan Mitchell is managing Director and chairman of today"s company. He"s closely abetted by Peter Dunne, also a director, who joined the company in 1970. Robert Mitchell, son of Jonathan, manages the company"s other wine shop, opened in Glasthule, Co. Dublin in 1997.
Wine consumption in Ireland has grown steadily over the last 10 years, the same decade in which new world wine has come into serious prominence. Mitchells, however, was importing containers form Australia and Chile in the early 1970s. And Peter Dunne talks about the original emergence of these wines in 1560 as if it were yesterday. "The line between new and old world wine was drawn when Mexico started to grow and make wine, after Jesuit missionaries started bringing it in for alter wine. Nowadays, countries like Slovenia, in particular, will be interesting to watch, and Hungary, which has of course been producing wine for a very long time."
Mitchells believe in the personal touch and intends remaining a family business, dealing directly with chateau and vineyard owners who are their suppliers.
This article is its complete version appears in a book, published by New Island Books entitled "Trade Names," which is a compilation of articles by Rose Doyle, which have appeared in the Irish Times.
Jameson and Power were the big Dublin whiskey distillers when Mitchells went into the business of whiskey bonding in 1887. "Findlaters would have been around then," Jonathan says, "and Gilbeys. We had special whiskey cellars in Fitzwilliam Lane where we bottled our Green Spot whiskey and matured it for 10 years."
Green Spot, since the 1920s, has been a continuing success. Up there with Black Bush, it"s distilled, matured and bottled for Mitchells and, in 2003, won a gold medal in Best of the Best Whiskey Tasting run by the prestigious Whiskey Magazine.
Peter Dunne says he joined Mitchells "virtually from school. As Jonathan did, I learned things from the bottom up, picking grapes in France, bottling, going through the whole gamut. It"s a tough but lovely business to be in."
He"s full of interesting detail and explains some of the practical realities and latter day great changes in the business. "We imported wine in casks until 1978," he says, "and had a Heath Robinson-like machine which bottled gin, rum, sherry, port - all of which came in casks. People returned their bottles, or if they didn"t they were charged for them. We didn"t bottle everything, of course. At the very expensive end of the market, as with Chateau Margaux, they bottled their own. By the late 1970s and early 1980s, the EU was changing the laws appertaining to wine bottles almost by the hour until it reached a point where, along with other importers, we had to bring in wine already bottled in its country of origin."