The Dalmore distillery, located north of Inverness, was founded in 1839. Founder Alexander Matheson didn"t actually distill the whisky himself there; he immediately leased the distillery to the Sunderland family and they were involved in the operations until 1867. In 1874 Dalmore"s number of stills was increased from two to four; quite an exception in those days. After Alexander Matheson died in 1886, Sir Kenneth Matheson sold the distillery to its former operators; brothers Alexander, Andrew & Charles Mackenzie.
After that things become confusing; according to some sources "American Brands" was renamed to "JBB (Greater Europe) plc." in 1995, but others claim that that was the new name for "Whyte & Mackay Distillers", assumed in 1996.
Whatever the case, all sources seem to agree that JBB Greater Europe was bought from Fortune Brands by Kyndal Spirits in 2001, who then decided to change the name back to Whyte & Mackay Ltd. Yes, I told you it was a bit confusing, didn"t I?
Long before the legal battle about compensation for the damages between Andrew Mackenzie and the Royal Navy was over (the debate eventually reached the House of Lords) Dalmore distillery resumed production again. Apparently the distillery enjoyed a few decades of relative peace until its floor maltings were replaced with a so-called Saladin box in 1956. The Saladin maltings remained in use until 1982, after which Dalmore purchased its malted barley centrally, like most other distilleries these days.
In 1966 the number of stills was expanded from 4 to 8, putting Dalmore in the top 25 distilleries, capacity-wise. Large drinks corporations mingle and merge like swingers from the 1960"s and the story with Dalmore is little different. In 1960 Mackenzie Brothers Ltd. had already merged with Whyte & Mackay to form Dalmore-White & Mackay Ltd. which later became Whyte & Mackay Distillers Ltd. In 1990 White & Mackay Distillers Ltd. was purchased by American Brands.
In 1917 the focus shifted from malts to mines at Dalmore; the navy used the location for the production of deep-sea mines. In 1920 they left the distillery again - mostly in ruins after an explosion and a fire. Needless to say, Andrew Mackensie undertook legal action against the Royal navy.
The Dalmore distillery, located north of Inverness, was founded in 1839. Founder Alexander Matheson didn"t actually distill the whisky himself there; he immediately leased the distillery to the Sunderland family and they were involved in the operations until 1867. In 1874 Dalmore"s number of stills was increased from two to four; quite an exception in those days. After Alexander Matheson died in 1886, Sir Kenneth Matheson sold the distillery to its former operators; brothers Alexander, Andrew & Charles Mackenzie. Dalmore twelve years old Scotch whisky (old bottling)
Dalmore isn"t the only distillery owned by Whyte & Mackay when I write this; the distilleries Old Fettercairn and Isle of Jura are part of their "stable" as well. The same goes for Tamnavulin, which was silent for a few years until United Spirits took over the business in 2007. The force behind this all is Indian mogul Vijay Mallya.
Let"s hope that the new ownership will bring Dalmore back on track. During the 1990"s their 12yo "standard" bottling was an dependable favourite of mine; always a good single malt whisky for a very decent price - and without too much batch variation. The 21yo and 30yo official releases were slightly better, but in my mind that didn"t justify the significant price difference.
2004 - a brand new visitor centre is added to the malt whisky distillery in Ross-shire.
2007 - United Spirits (the company of Indian politician and mogul Vijay Mallya) takes over Whyte & Mackay.
At a certain point it becomes very difficult to make an even better whisky - even with the investment of a lot of capital, time and energy. Making an even more expensive whisky is fairly easy in comparison if you"re the one making the price tags. Making those price tags seems to have become part of the job description of Dalmore"s "Master Blender" since Richard Patterson assumed this position a few years ago. In 2007 Richard was proudly promoting a bottle that was said to contain single malt whiskies from 1868, 1878, 1926, 1939 en 1961. The price? A mere 68,000 dollars.
I can"t tell you if the whisky was actually any good because I haven"t tried it myself. Nevertheless, I dare to assume that my "cumulative" pleasure would be higher if I invested my money in bottles of the more affordable expressions like the 12yo and the "Cigar Malt" depicted at the right. The princely sum of 68,000 dollars would buy me circa 1500 bottles of the regular 12 years old malt whisky. Even if I emptied one bottle each week, that stock would last me for another thirty years. I would have to learn to live without the nice "gift wrapping" that comes with the expensive bottle, but I"ll have time to learn to live with that...
In the new Millenium
2001 - Mother company Fortune Brands sold JBB Greater Europe to Kyndal Spirits, who decided to change the name (back) to Whyte & Mackay Ltd. one year later. Or at least as far as I can understand the peculiar financial history...
For a while, one of the most expensive bottles of whisky ever sold was a 62 years old Dalmore single malt whisky, sold at an auction by McTears. This particular bottle switched owners for a little over 25,000 GBP. According to our fellow malt maniac Charlie MacLean, the buyer it shared it with his friends; the bottle was finished in a single evening. Well, I hope they enjoyed it in good spirits but I won"t put this one on my shopping list. It just doesn"t make economical sense...
It"s difficult to produce, market and distribute a drinkable whisky for less than 10 Euro"s a bottle. Let"s assume that"s roughly the minimum price of a bottle of (blended) whisky; you are paying mostly for the flavoured alcohol inside the bottle. The added value of the more expensive whiskies consists partly of a higher "intrinsic quality", for example because the whisky was matured longer or contains a higher percentage of malt whisky. However, as the "street value" of a bottle of whisky grows, a larger portion of the price is invested in stuff like PR, marketing and packaging. In my experience the Law of Diminishing Returns applies here - a 250 Euro bottle of whisky is rarely five times better than a 50 Euro bottle.
While the importance of "quality" diminishes in the "ultra premium" segment, the "social" componant increases. Especially in America and Asia expensive whiskies are not merely drunk for their taste and intoxicating qualities; the (perceived) effects on one"s status is even more important. In this respect, the "image" of a brand is paramount.
People that are primarily interested in outwards appearances often know little about the product. That means that they mainly select their whiskies based on the price of the bottle (more expensive = better) and the age of the whisky inside the bottle (older = better). The whisky industry was delighted when they discovered that there was a large audience out there that was more interested in expensive whisky than in good whisky.